Flap Pocket Tutorial
Photo tutorial for the single layer Flap Pocket with a Welt edging
This Welt Pocket, features on the Sammelsurium Pullover in Åsa Tricosa Ziggurats: 16 elegantly seamless knits
This single layer Flap pocket is constructed like the Mayhem cardigan dk pocket – a lining flap is worked as an extension in the front fabric of the pullover and then attached to the wrong side of the fabric as you continue knitting the pullover rounds towards the hem.
And no… I couldn’t resist tweaking precisely how the lining flap is attached. Just a little… so this pocket differs a smidge from the Mayhem cardigan pocket.
Another difference: the Mayhem pocket has no edging – the ribbed fabric of that cardigan keeps the edge from rolling or expanding. A prepared folded Welt does the trick on plain fabric pullovers like Sammelsurium and Simple Ziggurat.
For an explanation of the abbreviations used, see Abbreviations.
How to knit the Flap Pocket with a Welt Edging
(In the Ziggurat Book this is a variant of pocket 2c.)
The stitch counts given below are for the mini pocket on Sammelsurium (the grey pullover) – 17 sts wide. The maroon pullover with the orange peekaboo lining is a (forthcoming) Faery Wings Simple Ziggurat. That pocket is 25 stitches wide. You can of course make the pocket wider or smaller as you please.
Stitch count guide for wider or smaller pockets:
A = width of pocket
N1: Body stitches
N2: 1-2 sizes smaller than N1 (for the Welt, and later used for the Lining Flap)
Circular or double pointed needle
N3: Same size as N2 or smaller (temporary holder for 3-needle closing of Welt)
Prepare a Welt
With N2, a separate ball of MC, and using the Winding Provisional Cast On, wind on 17 (A) sts.
Note: in the photos I used a contrast yarn for better visibility
R1 (RS): Loop cable, knit the wound loops to end. 17 (A) sts
17 (A) provisional sts sit on the cable and are not worked at this time
R2 (WS): Purl.
Work 6 additional rows of stocking stitch, ending with a WS row.
Slip the provisional sts onto a spare needle (N3), fold Welt double with RS facing out, N2 in front of N3, tips parallel and pointing in the same direction. With N2 knit the two layers together, working 1 stitch from N2 and 1 st from N3 for each k2tog. 17 (A) sts
Attach the Welt
Sammelsurium and Simple Ziggurat have a contrasting band on the lower part of the body. The Welt is attached over the 3 final rounds of main colour (MC). The instructions below reflect this. If you are not using a contrast colour (CC), ignore the instruction to change colour.
On the 3 attaching-rounds the live Welt stitches on N2 are not worked but left alone.
Rnd 1 (N1): Knit to Right side marker, sm, knit 5–10 cm (2″–4″) past the side marker (for Sammelsurium: k15 (15, 15, 20, 20) [20, 25, 25, 25, 25] sts), pm (Pm1), place Welt with folded edge facing towards top of pullover, RS facing up (WS has purl bumps)…
Rnd 1 (cont): Sl1 kwise, insert RN tip (or use crochet hook) into outer corner of Welt to fetch yarn through both layers…
Rnd 1 (cont):… psso (pass slipped stitch over)…
Rnd 1 (cont): Continuing along grey Body stitches, k15 (A-2).
It’s time to attach the far end of the Welt:
Rnd 1 (cont): Insert RN tip into upper corner of Welt, fetch yarn through both layers, place stitch on LN…
Rnd 1 (cont):…pass next Body stitch over and off LN, (slide N1-stitches from cable back onto Right Tip), slip resulting stitch to RN, pm (Pm2), work to end of round. Rnd 1 is complete.
Rnd 2: As Rnd 1, but attach Welt through stitch above the previously attached edge stitch (and slip instead of place markers).
Rnd 3: As Rnd 2.
(If MC is darker than CC, also work Optional Rear Shaping (see pattern), cut MC. If instead CC is darker, work the rear shaping on the second round of CC).
Pocket Lining (& change to contrast colour)
Change to CC (CC1 – here a lighter grey)
Rnd 1: With CC1, knit to Pm1, sl next stitch onto N2 (the Welt needle), ssk, (one Body stitch tog with first Welt stitch), then continue with N1 along Welt stitches; knit to last Welt stitch, sl1, set N1 aside (no stitches remain on N2).
Pull on N1 Right Tip to slide stitches onto the cable.
Pocket Lining – the Flap
The lining is worked flat, back and forth with N2 and CC2 (blue yarn).
R1 (RS): With N2, CC2, and starting 1 stitch after Pm1, k14 (A-3), sl1wyf. 15 (A-2) sts
Turn to work WS.
R2 (WS): K1, M1Lp, purl to last st, M1Lp, sl1wyf. 17 (A) sts
R3: Knit to last stitch, sl1wyf.
R4: K1, purl to last stitch, sl1wyf.
Work Rows 3 & 4 again x 9 (or to desired depth of pocket).
Cut CC2 (or leave attached for later adjustment of pocket depth). Slide stitches onto cable and set aside.
Rnd 1 (N1) continued: Slip last Welt stitch to LN, k2tog, sm, work to end of round.
The lining is joined to the body on every second round.
Note: fetch yarn through both legs of the slipped edge stitch.
Rnd 1 (attachm-rnd): Knit to Pm1, sm, sl1 knitwise, fetch yarn through the lining edge-stitch, psso…
Rnd 1 continued: …knit to 1 stitch before Pm2, knit this stitch together with edge stitch of lining (going through both legs), sm, work to end of round (and pay attention to the g1-stitch along sides and to waist shaping).
Rnd 2: Knit to Pm1, sm, make twisted loop in bar between sts and place on LN…
Rnd 2 (continued):… k2tog (body stitch together with loop), work to end of round.
Work Rnds 1 & 2 until body is level with lining or just slightly longer:
Close the Pocket
Closing Rnd: Work to Pm1, rm, slide N2-stitches onto needle tip, with CC1, k2tog (1 stitch from each needle) to Pm2, rm, work to end of round.
Yarn in photos
Grey Sammelsurium: The Little Grey Sheep Gotland DK (and yellow 4ply Stein Fine Wool)
Maroon Simple Ziggurat: Fyberspates Faery Wings (earlier edition – new edition has just been launched)
The Flap pocket can be made with different prepared edgings. For example, the Coucou tunic has a small cable that is attached as above – stitches are picked up along the cable edge to bridge the gap across the pocket opening:
Or you can make a striped Welt…
or a two-coloured Welt as on the Vaudeville tunic (single layer, double-knitted pocket and lining):
Or a tightly knitted striped passe-partout that is almost like a cord – as on Bento Boksy (this pocket is also double-knitted, but I think I will knit my next Bento Boksy with the easier method of the Flap pocket):
Anything you want!!
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