Sweatrrr
Sweatrrr is a fun, funky, sligthly tailored but not too clingy sweater knitted all in one go from the cast on to the hem, using the same Ziggurat Top-Down Tricnique as Simple, Koronki, Tric, well all of my sweaters now!
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- Sweatrrr
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- Sweatrrr
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- Sweatrrr
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- Sweatrrr
Necessity is the mother of invention – the triangle sleeve was invented to stretch 3 skeins to make a sweater. It worked!
This is the original wedge:
Sweatrrr
Small intarsia squares (aka as blobs) run down centre back and front.
The contrasting rolled neck is knitted last.
The set-in sleeves are also knitted top-down and in the round using either Magic Loop or two circs.
A bold triangle insert is knitted into the right sleeve as a finishing (yarn-saving) flourish. Not a seam in sight.
There are step-by-step instructions, an overview table to help you keep track of increases from shoulder to the separation of sleeves, and how-to photos (on the last pages, to be printed or not as you choose).
Instructions for (optional) bust darts (3 sizes) and waist shaping are also included.
Oh, and my personal favourite, the idiosynchratic bum-forgiving increase. This is for those of us whose bum sometimes serves as an… um… little shelf where t-shirts, jackets and shirts tend to rest and bunch up. A handful of increases at the back on a round slightly below the waist takes care of that.
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6 Comments
I want to buy this pattern but note that the wool and gauge are very different on the Ravelry page. The sweater gauge is 23 stitches on 2.5 – 3mm needles but the recommended wools are 28 stitches on those needles. To get gauge would be to use a much bigger needle and thus a more open fabric. No one else is complaining of this so I guess I am misunderstanding it but as I have a habit of knitting too big I don’t want to make a mistake here. Can you explain. I love the sweater
Gauge is so… personal, isn’t it?!
The Fyberspates sock yarn is on the heavier side of sock yarns, so the pattern gauge is what worked for me. Personally, I don’t pay much attention to the recommendations on the yarn label – sometimes my gauge is the same as the recommended gauge, at other times not.
The deciding factor is the resulting fabric. You should choose needles and gauge that gives you a fabric that looks pleasing to you. Hopefully it will be the same gauge as the pattern you have chosen. If not and you are not really keen to recalculate and rework numbers, you may have to swatch in a different yarn to see whether that comes closer to gauge. (Another work around would be to pick a Ziggurat sweater that matches your gauge and then add the design details from Sweatrrr.)
Where can I buy this pattern?
You can buy it on Ravelry: Sweatrrr pattern
Thanks for asking!
And hello again! 🙂
Hello Asa – Is there a longer explanation of the Colour Chart & Ladder Chart and how to use it once you join in the round? I am just not understanding how these charts work together and have not been able to find any additional info in the pattern.
Thank you for any assistance.
Hello Jessi! I don’t think there is, no. May I suggest that you post your question in the Åsa Tricosa Group on Ravelry – knitters there are friendly and generously share their suggestions and expertise. And I do drop by there fairly often to see whether questions have been responded to. And to learn things from the responses!